Early Bustle Era bodice
This pattern was created for the early bustle time frame-1869-1875.
It has two length options-A. waist (short) and B. basque (hip length) and depending on the fabrics and trim used can be made up into an appropriate bodice for nearly any situation. It was not taken directly from an existing garment, but rather made by studying many such garments, pattern drafts, photos, and fashion plates as being the most "representative" of the period.
It is suggested that view A back be cut on the fold of the fabric and the style shown is appropriate from 1868-1875 , while View B with a center back seam and stand up collar is a bit later in the early bustle era and would be seen from 1870-1875. The sleeve caps may be omitted on view A and are more common from 1868-1872 than the later years of the early bustle period. Decorative sashes are very popular from 1868 through about 1874 and may also be worn with the basque bodice, and in many other styles as well as the one shown.
I have also marked the cutting line for a square neckline on the front of the dress for evening or dinner wear, or to be filled in with a chemisette for day wear. Simply cut out along this line and bind or pipe as you would the round neckline. A tall collar is not necessary for "proper" day wear in this period- a neckline to the base of the throat is sufficient to remain within the boundries of polite society.
This bodice should be very fitted when finished, and only 1/2 inch ease is allowed in the pattern, plus a wide seam allowance at the side seam to allow for fitting. It is also intended to be worn over a corset. If you have not worn a properly fitted period bodice before it is suggested you make it up in an inexpensive fabric to see if you want to make it from the next larger size. Instructions for making a fitting muslin are also included to achieve the best fit possible!